Thapa Peak (Dhampus Peak) Climbing: A Complete Expedition Guide

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Thapa Peak (Dhampus Peak) Climbing: A Complete Expedition Guide

Budget

NPR 1000

Per Person

Rating

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Duration

20 Days

Trip Overview

Thapa Peak, also known as Dhampus Peak (6,012 meters / 19,724 feet), is a striking trekking peak located in the Dhaulagiri region of western Nepal. Overlooking both the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges, this climb offers one of the most panoramic Himalayan experiences with less technical difficulty, making it ideal for first-time climbers looking to summit a 6,000-meter peak.

Location and Overview

Thapa Peak lies northeast of Dhaulagiri I, between the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna massifs, within the Hidden Valley, near Thapa Pass (5,240 m). It is typically accessed from the Dhaulagiri Circuit Trek, one of Nepal’s more remote and adventurous trekking routes. The peak provides a commanding view of the Dhaulagiri range, Tukuche Peak, Nilgiri, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, and Machapuchare (Fishtail). Despite its elevation, it is considered a non-technical climb, although good physical condition and basic mountaineering knowledge are still necessary due to the high altitude and glacier travel.

Trekking and Climbing Experience

The Thapa Peak expedition combines a classic high-altitude trek with a moderate snow climb. The journey begins in Beni, following the Dhaulagiri Circuit trail through dramatic landscapes—rivers, forests, alpine meadows, and glaciers—before entering the remote Hidden Valley. The Base Camp is set at around 5,100 meters, and the climb is typically made from High Camp at approximately 5,600 meters. The route to the summit includes a gradual snow slope and glacier crossing. Fixed ropes are generally not required in normal conditions, but depending on weather and snow, guides may install safety lines.

Sherpa Guides and SupportA certified Sherpa climbing guide is essential for ensuring a safe and successful expedition. Sherpa guides:

Handle route finding and safety on snow/glacier
Provide mountaineering instruction during acclimatization
Monitor acclimatization and symptoms of altitude sickness
Organize logistics, food, and camp setup Porters and cooks may also accompany the group, especially on the longer trek through the Dhaulagiri region where teahouses are limited.

Package Highlights:

Why Climb Thapa Peak?

Spectacular Himalayan Views – Offers a front-row seat to the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges, among the best panoramas in Nepal.
Perfect for Beginner Climbers – No serious technical climbing but still a full alpine experience above 6,000 meters.
Wild and Remote – Less commercialized than other trekking peaks, with a true wilderness experience.
Combined with Dhaulagiri Circuit – Adds adventure and acclimatization, giving you a richer trekking experience.
Cultural and Natural Diversity – Traverse Magar villages, high alpine deserts, glaciers, and remote valleys.

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Trip Information

Start : Kathmandu
Finish : Kathmandu
Difficulty : Moderate
Max Altitude : 6012m
Group Size :
Season :

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Cost Includes

Airport transfers
Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara
All ground transport and domestic flights
Full-board meals during trek and climb
Experienced climbing Sherpa guide and porters
All permits (NMA, ACAP, Restricted Area, TIMS)
Group climbing gear (tents, ropes, stove, fuel)
First aid kit, emergency communication
Staff insurance and equipment
Summit certificate

International flights to/from Nepal
Personal travel insurance (including helicopter rescue)
Personal climbing equipment (boots, crampons, harness)
Tips for guides and porters
Alcohol, snacks, laundry, and personal expenses
Extra days due to weather or travel delays

Essential Info

Permits Required

Climbing Thapa Peak requires several permits:
Dhampus Peak Climbing Permit – Issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).
Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) – Required for entering the Annapurna region.
Dhaulagiri Restricted Area Permit – Due to the remoteness and location of part of the trek.
TIMS Card (Trekkers’ Information Management System) – For tracking and safety. Most trekking companies handle all permits for you prior to the climb.

Nearest Airport and Access

The closest international access point is Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA), Kathmandu. From Kathmandu, climbers either:

Take a domestic flight to Pokhara, followed by a drive to Beni, or
Drive directly from Kathmandu to Beni (10–12 hours).

Beni is the trailhead for the Dhaulagiri Circuit and Thapa Peak approach.

Extra Info

Required Equipment

Trekking Gear:

High-quality hiking boots
Thermal layers, fleece, and down jacket
Waterproof shell (jacket and pants)
Sleeping bag (-20°C), trekking poles, sunglasses

Climbing Gear:

Mountaineering boots (B2/B3)
Crampons, ice axe, helmet
Harness, carabiners, prusik cords
Headlamp, gaiters, warm gloves

Most gear is available for rent or purchase in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

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Mr. Sonam G. Sherpa

Mr. Ang Dawa Sherpa